How do I Convert Work Tables to Conference Room Tables With Custom Tabletops?

Purchasing large conference room tables can be a major expense when setting up an office. If you have heavy work tables available they make a reasonable alternative, but they don't generally give the appearance expected for a conference room. Creating custom tops to adapt your work tables for use as conference tables is one solution. The tops can be built from cabinet grade hardwood plywood, which is available in a wide variety of grains and will sand to smooth surface that will accept a fine finish. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1

Choose your plywood to match the existing grain of the woodwork or furniture in the conference room. For conference rooms with painted woodwork use MDF to build the top. This wood composite sands down to a smooth finish that accepts high gloss paint.

2

Measure the width and length of your work table. The center panel of your custom table top will need to be at least as large as these dimensions. Mark out a rectangle for each table on a sheet of plywood. Make it at least a -inch wider and longer than the top of the work table. Make the cuts on a table saw.

3

Cut two -inch thick hardwood strips 3-inches wide by the length of table, plus 1- inches. Miter each end of the strips at 45 degrees, one right and one left. Cut the pieces to width on the table saw, and make the end cuts with a miter saw.

4

Glue and nail the hardwood strips to the edges of the new top panel you cut from plywood or MDF. Mount them with one long edge flush with the top face of the panel and the inside edge of the miters flush at the corners. Put one piece on each edge, with the miters matching up at the corners to create a four sided frame around the edge of the panel. Nail in place with an air nailer or one finish nail every 8 to 10 inches.

5

Fill the nail holes with solvent based wood filler in the appropriate color for your wood grain. Use a flexible putty knife to apply the filler. Apply filler to the seam between the top edge of the hardwood band and the top face of the plywood panel as well.

6

Wait for the filler to harden, the sand the entire top, concentrating on any raised grain, the filled seams and nail holes. Use 150 grit paper for the first pass. Once the top has been sanded with 150 grit sandpaper thoroughly, take a second pass with 220 grit. Go over the surface lightly.

7

Apply a coat of stain in your choice of colors, matching existing woodwork or furniture, with a soft bristle brush. Apply the stain with long, straight, even strokes to spread it as evenly as possible. Wipe the surface with a clean, soft, lint-free rag to remove excess stain.

8

Allow the stain to dry for the labels recommended drying time before applying two to three coats of clear-coat finish. Match the sheen of the finish to the surrounding furniture or woodwork. Satin works well, it provides a subtle glow without the glare of gloss finishes and it resists scratching. Allow the labels recommended drying time between coats, use a soft bristle brush and apply it as evenly as possible to prevent runs and drips.

9

Position the custom top on top of the work table, centered, after the stain and finish have dried fully. Drive treated deck screws up through the bottom of the work table top into the bottom of the new top to secure. Use screws that are -inch shorter than the total thickness of the work top, plus the -inch plywood of the new top. Use one screw every 12 inches.

10

Apply a coat of stain to the legs or any other parts of the table underneath that will be exposed. Use the same stain you used on the top, follow up with clear finish, using the same tools and techniques as for the top.